Nowadays, we face most in our phone is battery problem. You'll be surprised the phone batteryyou just finished charging suddenly showing you battery low as though it was sucked up.
There are ways to prevent this but if you try all this out and you still see no difference, then you'll need to change your battery again.
1.Limit phone notifications
Notifications are incredibly useful, however they also drain battery life and not all are actually necessary. Switching off notifications for specific applications can help your phone’s strength.
2.Lower screen brightness
Your phone’s screen is accountable for the biggest effect on your battery life, but it’s easy to limit how much energy it consumes. Auto-brightness is convenient, but often models the screen brightness to a higher level than it requires to be. Turning auto-brightness off, setting your display’s brightness to a lesser level and modifying it if you want to is a lot more sensible.
3.Switch off location services
GPS is a huge drain on your phone’s battery, as more and more apps use your location data to work out where you are, and shape your experience according to that information. Unless you’re using a Maps app, you can get by without it.
4.Turn off vibrations
Vibrate is a great middle-ground between a potentially disruptive ringtone and total, uncertain silence, but it also uses up the most battery life of the three options. You can go a step further by also disabling tap feedback, which can be reassuring, but is ultimately unnecessary.
5.Turn off connections when not in use
If you’re connected to a Wi-Fi network, switch your mobile data off, and vice versa.
6.Cut your assistant off if need be
Virtual assistants are becoming increasingly capable, and therefore increasingly important in tech companies’ eyes. Not all consumers share the enthusiasm of Google and Apple though, and rarely - if ever - use Google Assistant and Siri. Whether you use them or not, by default the two assistants are always listening out for their trigger words, and this uses up battery life.
7.Uninstall apps you don’t need
Some apps drain more battery life than others, and it’s worth working out which ones you can do without. Facebook, for instance, is known to have a big impact on your phone’s battery, and you can eliminate this by deleting the app and using the social network in your web browser instead.
In addition,if your battery doesn’t work,you can buy a replacement battery. Tow years ago ,my laptop battery was useless,and I bought one at www.outeccbattery.com and used it now！It seems to have all kinds of batteries.I hope I can help you!
If your laptop is shutting down abruptly, it means your laptop needs to be Recalibrated . Recalibration doesn't improve laptop battery life - Windows is simply better informed on how long it should expect your battery to last. Here are instructions:How to Calibrate Your Laptop Battery For Accurate Battery Life Estimates.
Li-ion batteries lose approx 20% of capacity per year at room temperature.If your laptop is over 5 years old, the capacity loss you are experiencing is normal. If you continue to run the battery through several deep discharge cycles, it's capacity will drop even further.
There are a couple of troubleshooting steps you can try, but these are for when capacity is lower than expected. This is not the case for you, so I suspect they will do you no good.
1.Force-reset Microsoft battery drivers - to do this, remove your laptop battery, power up your laptop, go into device manager and uninstall all drivers listed under 'Battery'. Then shut down the machine, re-install the battery and power it up again.
2.Upgrade your BIOS - You should be on version 3.10.
3.Check for laptop heat issues - Battery capacity can be severely impaired if a nearby component is overheating due to blocked vents or dusty fans.
4.Cool the battery down (caution advised!) - Wrap the battery up tightly in paper towels or newspapers, seal it in an airtight ziploc bag squeezing out as much air as possible, and place it in your refrigerator (not freezer) for at least a day. Remove the bag and let it return to room temperature before removing the laptop battery and testing it. Don't remove the battery from the bag while still cool to avoid condensation.
5.After all this is done,the battery is still the same as before ,so you have to consider buying a new battery as a replacement battery.
Aftermarket batteries for your laptop are available , so that's really the way to replace. However, your options may well be limited if you don't consider the aftermarket batteries.
Another option if you are comfortable using a soldering iron (again, caution strongly advised) is to rebuild your battery with individual Li-ion cells, either bought new or reclaimed from other laptop batteries. Instructions here: How to rebuild a Li-ion battery pack. When working with Li-ion batteries, keep away from inflammable objects, wear eye and skin protection, and keep a bucket of sand handy.
Also take a look at the service configuration guide for your version of Windows, so you can disable unnecessary services such as search indexing: Service Configurations.
Hopefully this will help you improve your laptop battery.
All laptops are different, however, they usually share similarities when it comes to taking out the main battery. If you are replacing a laptop battery, you can insert the new battery after removing the old battery.
Note: Many ultrabook laptops have batteries that are not accessible from the outside of the laptop. Removing the battery will require the help of a repair technician to open the laptop.
Easily replace battery, Follow these steps:
Turn off your laptop and disconnect the AC adapter.
Release the latch or other attachment devices that hold your battery in place.
Slide the old battery out of its compartment or storage bay.
Take the replacement battery out of the box.
Slide it into the notch or bay.
Close the safety latch to lock it into place.
Reconnect the AC adapter and give the battery a full charge.
Other situations
Although most laptops only have one latch, there are some that require you to slide two latches to remove the battery. On these laptops, the latches will still look similar to the examples above, but require you to move both at the same time, usually towards each other.
Finally, there are also some older laptops that require the latch to be pulled out and then pushed towards the battery.
No battery latch found
If you cannot find any battery latches or buttons for releasing the battery on the bottom of the laptop, it is possible the laptop utilizes a different mechanism to release the battery. The laptop may also need to be serviced by a licensed repair facility to have the battery removed through partial or full disassembly.
We recommend referring to the laptop documentation or check the manufacturer's website for steps on how to remove the battery or if servicing is required to remove the battery.
Did you just get a laptop but the AC adapter is not included and you are always chewing through batteries? This guide will go through the basics of choosing a power supply that matches your device.
What is an AC adapter?
Basically, it converts your mains power AC 110-240V AC into a smaller usually DC voltage that your small device needs to operate. Often these are required for charging or powering battery operated devices.
A look at your typical device
By far the easiest way is to check if your device has a specific power adapter already available, this takes the guess work out of getting your own third party power adapter. If you can’t find one then this quick guide covers the basic things to look for.
The first thing you want to do is find out what your device needs to operate so inspect the device and look for any labels or symbols that indicate either the voltage or mAh/A. If you can not find anything have a look in the user manual or try a quick Google search.
This laptop has
V = An input Voltage of 19.5V.
AC or DC – DC as indicated by the symbol.
mAh/A – consumes 3.34A to 4.62A of current.
Once you have this key data you are ready to start looking for an adapter.
Choosing the right adapter specs.
The general rule is to match the V and equal or beat the mAh, so if you are choosing an AC adapter to make sure you check the following,
The adapter output V matches the rated input V of the device.
The adapter output is greater or equal to the devices rated mAh or A.
The plug fits into your device and has the correct polarity.
Usually, all of this info is on the adapter sticker, remember you are always looking for the output V and mAh or A.
A typical ac adapter sticker with all the essential info. Output is 8V 2.5A.
If that is all you needed and feel confident start hunting for your adapter now, if you still want a deeper breakdown of the adapter features we have a deeper explanation below;
Checking the (V)olts
AC or DC – Most adapters convert AC to DC, but it is still important to check the output.
These symbols show the type of output of the adapter; usually, it is labeled as AC/DC or with the symbols above.
Volts – This is usually written on the adapter sticker or near the power connector port and can be written as V ,VAC or VCD.
It is important to use the correct volts when choosing the adapter as a device can only run on the rated voltage. The most common are 18V, 12V, 9V, 6V, 5V and 3V.
Checking the (A)mps
Once you have confirmed the voltage of the device we need to find the amount of current that it uses. Current tells us how much power the device needs to operate.
Amps: This is also usually written on the devices sticker or near the power port, this is measured in A or mAh. The adapter you choose must be able to supply at least the current rating of the device. Do not worry if the adapter has a higher rating as the device will only consume what it needs. Usually, a higher power adapter will be more expensive, so if you have the option just match the device’s power.
Your device is unlikely to operate if you have an adapter with a lower A or mAh output then the device, and if it does operate the adapter is likely to get very hot and could be dangerous.
Amps and volts what about Watts?
Voltage carries the power and the Amps are the measurement of how much power it consumes, think of it like a river, the V is how wide the river is and the A is how fast the water is flowing, so a low volt high amp circuit is a small river flowing fast.
If we look at the river we could calculate how much water is flowing in the river per hour. This would be the Watts. There is a direct relationship between these three variables.
A 12V 2A adapter (12m river flowing at 2m per hour) would have the watts of 12 X 2 = 24W.
The basic equations are here
W = V X A
A = W/V
V = W/A
Most devices will list A or mAh and not list the Watts, if you have one but need the other use the basic equation to convert.
Reading the polarity of the connector
Once you have the V and A down then comes the tricky part, most appliances will have a circular connector with the inside hole carrying one pole and the outside carrying the other.
The most common are center positive (+) connectors.
There is also the less popular center negative (-) connector.
The adapter and the device must match so always double check the symbol on the AC adapter and the device show the same polarity.
A center negative connector.
Choosing the plug
Hopefully you have the size of the devices plug and can just check the adapters measurements, there are two measurements for these types of connectors.
OD – Outer diameter of the plug.
ID – Inner diameter of the plug.
Typical low voltage adapter sizes.
A 5 mm OD x 2 mm ID says the outer diameter is 5mm and the inner is 2mm. If you go into a shop you can compare and test the connector size, or if you are technical minded you can measure the size of the port and pin yourself.
If you are measuring you need the diameter of the center pin for the (ID) and the inner diameter of the port (OD).
ID an OD measurements for both the female and male connector must match to connect properley.
The universal power adapter
If you are not sure on the pin type or are looking to use it for a few devices then make it easy with a universal adapter, they allow you to have different voltages, polarities and connectors.
As USB slowly takes over, the charging system is becoming universal, USB is now becoming available in lower power devices and as chargers become more powerful their will likely be more bigger and powerful devices running natively on USB. Until then remember to be safe with all electronics and double check everything as incorrect voltage or polarity can damage your device. I couldn’t spot any adjustable power supplies on our site but we do have a lot of adapter heads and already made adapters for laptops and other devices here.
The three most popular battery chemistries have very special qualities each. I'll start with the oldest first.
Nickel Cadmium
Nicad batteries are very robust. They are good for working in extreme environments, such as cold or hot weather. They also have a longer life cycle than NiMH or Li-ion, with about 700-1000 life cycles. They are very robust for high output deep discharge applications. On the downside, they have a charging problem called the "memory effect". That is, if they don't get completely charged after each use, they will potentially only charge up to the last highest charge. This can shorten the lifespan of the battery. They can be reconditioned but at the cost of at least 3 life cycles.
The benefits of using a Nicad battery are extreme temperature tolerance, deep discharge capabilities,
Nicad cell availability. Since Panasonic has bought Sanyo, the availability of quality cells has gone down. Panasonic has discontinued manufacturing several sizes of Nicad batteries. As a result, the sizes that have been discontinued are now only available by Chinese manufacturers. This is an inferior battery.
Nickel Metal Hydride
NiMH batteries offer a higher capacity than Nicad batteries, and less capacity than Li-Ion. They are nearly twice as heavy as Nicad batteries. They also don't have a memory effect. They are a good medium temperature battery. You can operate with them usually in -5 to 95 degrees farenheit with no adverse problems. They have good deep-discharge qualities and can store nearly twice the capacity of nicad cells. Their life-cycle is generally lower than nicad, at 500-800 life cycles. They are very similar to nicad when it comes to charge and discharge characteristics, and are safer than Lithium ion with thermal runaway.
NiMH batteries have more of a tendency to have weak-cell syndrome. That is, when you charge a battery pack all the way, then you go to use, it it dies right away. When you test it, it will say that its fully charged. This is because some or all of the cells can no longer hold power. NiMH batteries have a tendency to do this more than any other battery type.
NiMH cells are better protected from thermal runaway than Lithium Ion, however not as good as nicad. They have similar safety characteristics as nicad and are better for the environment than nicad.
The availability of NiMH cells is very good. Several manufacturers produce them in many countries.
Lithium Ion (Li-Ion)
Lithium Ion battery cells are known for their enormous energy density. They are able to store more energy per pound than any of the traditional battery packs. That makes them very popular for portable electronics, vehicles, etc. They don't have the memory effect that nicad does, and they perform the best at deep discharge applications compared to nicad or nimh. Environmentally they are safer to dispose than nicad as they don't taint water supplies, and from a mining point of view, there is no benefit or negative aspect either way.
Li-Ion is not a good battery chemistry for extreme temperatures. According to Nasa, the maximum capacity of lithium ion cells at -40 degrees C is 12% of its room temperature capacity. We've had customers who have had li-ion radio batteries stop working at -5 degrees farenheit.
Safety is another issue with lithium Ion. All lithium ion batteries have to be controlled with an integrated circuit to control input and output voltage. If the circuit is not present, the cell could have thermal runaway. I'm sure you've all heard of laptop batteries catching fire. That is an instance of thermal runaway. Another safety issue is water. In the presence of H2o, li-ion will oxidize extremely rapidly (hint explode).
The life cycle of li-ion is approximately 400 to 750. This is ever changing with the testing of different lithium salts but as of November 2012, when you purchase batteries for your consumer electronics, this will be the approximate range.
The charge and discharge curve of li-ion is extraordinary. It can handle heavy input and output voltage, making it ideal for use in power tools, electric vehicles, mobility devices, and the like.
The availability of lithium Ion is very good. There are several areas of the world that mine it, and pricing should be stable for the foreseeable future. Efforts from Wall Street to commoditize it would have negative effects on its price and availability.
Laptops have an advantage over smaller electronics when it comes to the battery. They have more room to put a power source in a laptop than phones or portable media players.
But as applications become increasingly demanding and your work requires more and more mobility, it's very possible that your laptop battery still isn't up to snuff.
Try these tips to prolong your battery life. Can you make it through the work day on a single charge?
Keep your laptop battery cool. Battery power saps more quickly when the battery is hot. Keep vents clear and don’t put your laptop on a pillow or other surface that will cover vents and trap heat.
Don’t keep your laptop plugged in. If you rarely unplug your laptop, you’re leaving it in a state of perpetual charge at 100 percent. That's bad for the battery’s long-term health. Unplug it on occasion and let the battery drain.
Put your computer to sleep when not in use. If you're taking a break, let your computer take one as well.
Remove the battery if you’re working at your desk for a while. When you remove it, don't store it fully charged. Aim for the middle: between 40 and 50 percent.
Buy an extra battery. Keep a spare battery on hand in case you can't get to a power outlet.
Close nonessential programs. The more your computer does, the more battery power it requires. Close any programs or background applications you're not using.
Disable wifi. Obviously there are times that having wireless internet is required, but for your next presentation or writing marathon, save your battery (and your focus) by turning it off.
Turn off Bluetooth. Turn off your laptop's Bluetooth when you're not connected to a phone or other peripheral.
Disable screen savers. Complex moving images are tough on your battery. Don't opt in for them.
Change power options. Macs and PCs have built-in functions to help you maximize battery life and efficiency. You can set the computer to effectively balance features like auto-sleep and screen brightness to make sure you're productive at your laptop all day without worrying about the battery.
Try a third-party power management tool. We like NightWatchman for PC and Power Manager for Mac.
Use the battery until you charge it. When it's fully charged unplug it and your battery will last longer, and, give better performance.
Clean your desk. It sounds strange, but if you have a dusty, dirty desk, that dust will get into the vents and clog the cooling fan. Once the dust is inside your laptop, it is much harder to remove. You can try blasting it out with canned air, but you run the risk of damaging internal components. You can also remove the vent and clean out the grit, but remember that taking apart your laptop can void the warranty. So clean your desk at least once a week, if not daily.
Be sure to charge up completely before you leave the house if there is no place to charge it where you are going.
Mac laptops offer Expose to switch off the display temporarily. Use that whenever you are playing music and not using the display, or going out for a short duration.
